(Ebook) Knitting Technology A Comprehensive Handbook and Practical Guide 3rd Edition by David Spencer 1855733336 9781855733336

(Ebook) Knitting Technology A Comprehensive Handbook and Practical Guide 3rd Edition by David Spencer 1855733336 9781855733336

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ISBN-10 :  1855733336 

ISBN-13 : 9781855733336

Author: David J. Spencer 

Knitting Technology: A Comprehensive Handbook and Practical Guide 3rd Table of contents:

Chapter 1. An introduction to textile technology
1.1 The evolution of textiles
1.2 Textile fabrics
1.3 Textile yarns and fibres
1.4 Yarn count numbering systems
1.5 Conversion formulae
Chapter 2. From hand knitting to hand frame knitting
2.1 The evolution of hand knitting
2.2 The spread of knowledge of hand pin knitting
2.3 The principles of hand knitting using two pins
2.4 The invention of the stocking hand frame
2.5 The bearded needle
2.6 The principles of frame knitting
2.7 The evolution of other weft knitting machines
2.8 The development of warp knitting
2.9 The potential of knitting technology
2.10 Meeting the challenge of new markets
Chapter 3. General terms and principles of knitting technology
3.1 Machine knitting
3.2 The knitted loop structure
3.3 A course
3.4 A wale
3.5 Stitch density
3.6 Technically upright
3.7 Design appearance requirements
3.8 The main features of the knitting machine
3.9 The needle
3.10 Fabric draw-off
3.11 The front of rectilinear needle bar machines
3.12 The basic knitting action of a needle
3.13 The bearded needle
3.14 The latch needle
3.15 Friction and frictionless needles
3.16 The bi-partite compound needle
3.17 A comparison of latch and compound needles
3.18 Machine gauge
Chapter 4. Basic mechanical principles of knitting technology
4.1 The sinker
4.2 The jack
4.3 Cams
4.4 The two methods of yarn feeding
4.5 The three methods of forming yarn into needle loops
Chapter 5. Elements of knitted loop structure
5.1 The needle loop
5.2 The sinker loop
5.3 Warp knitted laps
5.4 The overlap
5.5 The underlap
5.6 The closed lap
5.7 The open lap
5.8 Wrapping
5.9 The knitted stitch
5.10 The intermeshing points of a needle loop
5.11 The face loop stitch
5.12 The reverse loop stitch
5.13 Single-faced structures
5.14 Double-faced structures
5.15 A balanced structure
5.16 Face and reverse stitches in the same wale
5.17 Selvedged fabric
5.18 Cut edge fabric
5.19 Tubular fabric
5.20 Upright loop structures
5.21 Knitting notations
Chapter 6. Comparison of weft and warp knitting
6.1 Yarn feeding and loop formation
6.2 The two industries
6.3 Productivity
6.4 Machine design
6.5 Comparison of patterning and fabric structures
6.6 Course length and run-in per rack
6.7 Fabric quality
6.8 Structural modifications commonly used in weft and warp knitting
Chapter 7. The four primary base weft knitted structures
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Plain structure
7.3 Rib structure
7.4 Interlock structure
7.5 Purl structure
Chapter 8. The various types of weft knitting machines
8.1 Fabric machines and garment-length machines
8.2 Knitting welts and rib borders
8.3 Integral knitting
8.4 The three classes of weft knitting machines
Chapter 9. Stitches produced by varying the sequence of the needle loop intermeshing
9.1 Knitted stitches
9.2 The held loop
9.3 The drop or press-off stitch
9.4 The float stitch
9.5 Float plating
9.6 The tuck stitch
Chapter 10. Coloured stitch designs in weft knitting
10.1 Horizontal striping
10.2 Intarsia
10.3 Plating
10.4 Individual stitch selection
10.5 Jacquard design areas
10.6 Worked example
Chapter 11. Pattern and selection devices
11.1 Weft knitted patterns
11.2 Different lengths of butt
11.3 Different butt positions
11.4 Multi-step butt set-outs
11.5 Selection devices
11.6 Element selection
11.7 Selection area arrangement
11.8 Full jacquard mechanical needle selection
11.9 Multi-step geometric needle selection
11.10 Needle selection by disc
11.11 The pattern wheel
11.12 Pattern wheel design areas
11.13 Electronic needle selection
Chapter 12. Electronics in knitting
12.1 The disadvantages of mechanical control
12.2 The disadvantages of mechanical programming
12.3 The advantages of electronic control and programming
12.4 The compatibility of electronic signals and knitting data
12.5 Microprocessors and computers
12.6 The computerised knitting machine
12.7 Computer graphics and pattern preparation
12.8 The Stoll CAD pattern preparation system
12.9 The Shima total design system
Chapter 13. Circular fabric knitting
13.1 Weft knitted fabric production
13.2 Single- and double-jersey compared
13.3 Simple tuck and float stitch single-jersey fabrics
13.4 The history of double-jersey
13.5 Types of double-jersey structure
13.6 Non-jacquard double-jersey structures
13.7 Double jersey inlay
13.8 The modern circular fabric knitting machine
13.9 Versatility and quick response
13.10 The ‘contra’ knitting technique
13.11 Circular-machine production calculations
Chapter 14. Speciality fabrics and machines
14.1 The range of speciality fabrics
14.2 The production of fleecy on sinker-top machines
14.3 Fleecy interlock
14.4 Plush
14.5 The bearded needle sinkerwheel machine
14.6 Sinker plush knitted on single-jersey latch needle machines
14.7 Full-density patterned plush
14.8 Cut loop
14.9 Double-sided plush
14.10 Sliver or high-pile knitting
14.11 Wrap patterning
Chapter 15. Loop transfer stitches
15.1 Uses of loop transfer
15.2 The four main types of transfer stitches
Chapter 16. Welts, garment sequences and knitting to shape
16.1 The welt
16.2 Rib welts
16.3 Separation
16.4 Imparting shape during knitting
16.5 Integral garment knitting
Chapter 17. The straight bar frame and full-fashioning
17.1 The development of the straight bar frame
17.2 Fully-fashioned articles
17.3 Stocking production
17.4 Underwear and knitwear
17.5 Knitting motions of the straight bar frame
17.6 Knitting action of the plain straight bar frame
17.7 Loop transfer
17.8 The fashioning action
17.9 Automatic control
17.10 The welt
17.11 The rib-to-plain machine
17.12 Patterned structures
17.13 The challenge of latch needle machinery
Chapter 18. Flat knitting, basic principles and structures
18.1 History
18.2 The two types of flat machine
18.3 Flat machine gauges
18.4 Conversion from Cottons Patent to V-bed gauge
18.5 Knitting widths
18.6 Yarn counts
18.7 Simple hand-manipulated V-bed rib flat machines
18.8 Stitch cam settings
18.9 Spring-loaded cams
18.10 Two or more cam systems
18.11 Split cam-carriages
18.12 Direct and indirect yarn feed
18.13 Yarn carrier arrangement
18.14 Typical structures knitted on flat machines
Chapter 19. Automatic power flat knitting
19.1 History
19.2 The MacQueen concept
19.3 Power flat machines
19.4 The versatility of V-bed power flat knitting
19.5 Electronic controls replace mechanical controls
19.6 The garment sequence programme
19.7 Mechanical jacquard selection
19.8 The Shima Seiki electronic selection system
19.9 The take-down system
19.10 The fixed-stroke carriage traverse
19.11 Meeting the requirements of a shaping machine
19.12 The multiple-gauge technique
19.13 The split stitch
19.14 Multi-carriage flat machines
19.15 Seamless glove knitting
19.16 The WholeGarment knitting technique
19.17 The Shima model FIRST
19.18 The Tsudakoma TFK machine
Chapter 20. Circular garment-length machines
20.1 Circular versus flat machines
20.2 The double-cylinder garment-length machine
20.3 The RTR garment-length machine
20.4 Jumberca cylinder and dial and double-cylinder machines
20.5 Mecmor Variatex machines
20.6 The ‘seamless’ bodywear garment machine
Chapter 21. The manufacture of hosiery on small-diameter circular machines
21.1 Types of hosiery
21.2 Classes of hosiery machines
21.3 Gauge
21.4 The early development of ladies’ fine-gauge hosiery machines
21.5 The advent of nylon
21.6 Trends in fine-gauge hosiery since 1956
21.7 Ladder-resist structures
21.8 The development of the double-cylinder machine
21.9 Single-cylinder sock machines
21.10 Timing and control of mechanical changes on circular hosiery machines
21.11 Adjustment of loop length
21.12 The double-cylinder slider butt set-out
21.13 Production of heels and toes
21.14 Automatic separation
21.15 Seamed toe closing
21.16 Automatic toe closing on the knitting machine
21.17 Tights
Chapter 22. Aspects of knitting science
22.1 Knitted loop-shape and loop-length control
22.2 Loop length
22.3 Warp let-off
22.4 Weft knitted fabric relaxation and shrinkage
22.5 Knitted fabric geometry
22.6 Tightness factor
22.7 Robbing back
22.8 Needle bounce and high-speed knitting
22.9 The Cadratex unit
22.10 Positive needle control
Chapter 23. Basic warp knitting principles
23.1 Construction of warp knitted fabrics
23.2 The warp beams
23.3 The guide bar
23.4 The guides
23.5 Single needle bar structures
23.6 The pattern mechanism
23.7 The chain links
23.8 The electronic guide bar control system
23.9 The development of lapping diagrams and chain notations
23.10 Single- or double-needle overlaps
23.11 The five basic overlap/underlap variations
23.12 The direction of lapping at successive courses
Chapter 24. Classes of warp knitting machines
24.1 Characteristics of tricot and raschel machines
24.2 The tricot machine
24.3 The raschel machine
24.4 The compound-needle warp knitting machine
24.5 The crochet machine
24.6 The Waltex machine
24.7 Warping
Chapter 25. Plain tricot structures knitted with two full set guide bars
25.1 Rules governing two guide bar structures
25.2 Two bar tricot
25.3 Locknit
25.4 Reverse locknit
25.5 Sharkskin
25.6 Queenscord
25.7 Double atlas
25.8 Satin
25.9 Velour and velvet
25.10 Overfed pile structures
25.11 Typical run-in ratios for nylon yarns
Chapter 26. Surface interest, relief and open-work structures
26.1 Basic principles
26.2 Miss-lapping
26.3 Part-threaded guide bars
Chapter 27. ‘Laying-in’ and fall-plate
27.1 Laying-in and weft insertion
27.2 General rules governing laying-in in warp knitting
27.3 Mesh structures
27.4 Fall-plate patterning
27.5 Full-width weft insertion
27.6 Magazine weft insertion
27.7 Cut presser and miss-press structures
27.8 Spot or knop effects
27.9 Terry by the press-off method
Chapter 28. Multi guide bar machines and fabrics
28.1 The development of raschel lace
28.2 The success of raschel lace
28.3 Pattern guide bars
28.4 Guide bar nesting
28.5 Multi bar tricot lace machines
28.6 Chain links and electronic control of shogging
28.7 The summary drive
28.8 Raschel mesh structures
28.9 Marquisette and voile
28.10 Elasticised fabrics
28.11 Jacquard raschels
28.12 The Mayer Jacquardtronic multi-bar lace raschels
Chapter 29. Double needle bar warp knitting machines
29.1 Operating principles
29.2 Double needle bar basic lapping principles
29.3 Using two fully-threaded guide bars
29.4 The simplex machine
29.5 The double needle bar raschel
Chapter 30. Technical textiles
30.1 Markets for technical textiles
30.2 The properties of warp knitted structures
30.3 End-uses for technical textiles
30.4 Geotextiles
30.5 Knitted wire
30.6 The advantages of warp knitted nets
30.7 Composites
30.8 Warp knitted multi-axial weft insertion fabrics
30.9 Stitch bonding or web knitting
30.10 Spacer fabrics
30.11 Circular warp knitting
30.12 V-bed technical fabrics

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